Pacific City, Oregon, November 16th, 2014.
I thought I should start by stating the date, as my mind is constantly blown by how nice the seasons in Oregon can be. The onset of Fall and Winter, whilst its abrupt change from long, warm sunny days, there is something to be said for getting wrapped up warm and getting out in the elements. Especially when the elements are blue sky, clear water, good waves and offshore winds.
This weekend we headed to the beach for Colleen Quigleys birthday, who celebrated her 30th. In that shimmering blue water is about 8 good looking people posing as shark bait.
Coleen, Leanne and Hannah getting at it.
This was our view waking up. Yes, it takes a while for my eyes to focus in the morning. It was seriously one of the most amazing views ever to wake up to though.
There is something amazing about being by the ocean which probably stems from spending week after week by the beach in Wales, which looks a lot like Oregon (and the water is just as cold).
Like I say, the waves this weekend were amazing. The wind was kind, and with a good crew it made for an amazing bit of surfing. Before you say it, yes my camera has something on the lens. I am no pro, but yes, cleaning up the camera once in a while would have been a good idea.
Mornings haven’t looked this good in a while over a coffee.
In the water things were looking good.
People had head the rumors about the crew getting in the water, so there was a heavy media presence on the beach.
Meanwhile our surf team was just as focused on the warm up as the surf… Those old legs need stretching….
Like I said earlier, great weather, good swell, it doesn’t get much better. This was an unidentified ripper who seemed to be on every single wave on sunday morning. Crusher.
The morning surf check crew. Ami (yellow card Ami) and Cale.
Cale Meyer, amazing snowboarder, great bloke and good person to go surf with. As you can see below, he was just oh so eager to pull in and wet the babies head. This is the during.
This is the after,
and this is the feeling everyone knows once they have finished surfing and then eaten their own body weight in food. Nothing else compares to the after surf snooze.
Whilst talking of him, this photo below shows some of the waves, very very fast, and lots of offshore wind. This was Cale, but I had exactly the same.
On my first wave on sunday I took a wave and then swam back up and next thing…. the board lands on my head…
That blood means that the final score was Board 1 – 0 Me.
After my injury, I headed for a walk with the wife instead and did some exploring to the cliff tops here.
Its amazing how colorful the rocks are here…
And after the horror stories I heard about the water being dark and murky, this weekend shows me how clear and beautiful it was.
I also really enjoy taking pictures of surfing from a different angle to the beach. I’d love to be able to shoot from a heli or something on a big swell, it must be insane.
Surf Addict joined us sunday too to throw himself in the cave.
I just got this new wetsuit from Hurley which is only a 4’3 but kept me just as warm as a 5’3 which is amazing as its way more flexible and stretchy which you can imagine helps with those slow old office arms. Being thinner means it dries out quicker.
Which should help me getting in this position. I was convinced this was Aidan at one point… I’ll let him have it.
The one and only Eric Wallis who brought “lasagna with a street value of $22″. Amazing stuff!
On saturday night, waiting for Ami to finish surfing I was actually just lying in the sea as it was warmer than the air. If you know the cold water in Oregon, you know how cold the air was. Absoloutely freezing… i didn’t have gloves on either so it made it a cold walk back to the house.
The woman herself. The team captain of cramp vibes and surf explorer.