by The Good Life on September 7, 2017

in America

Surfing is fun.  Traveling to surf is probably more fun.  I often wonder what Surfing would be like if I lived at the beach.  Without the need to travel, drive, fly, organize to get somewhere to surf, would it have the same joy that it it does right now for me, almost as an escape?

People often talk about why countries without snow make great snowboarders, but I think part of it is the dedication needed to succeed.

I’ve always wanted to go to Mexico.  Especially right now with all of the rhetoric being spouted about Mexico and Mexicans by politicians who would have you believe that everyone south of San Diego is dangerous.

So with Labour Day upon us a good friend from the glory days of Nike Snowboarding called me up that he was celebrating his birthday over the weekend and so I should fly down.  Without a moments notice I was ready.

First stop, figuring out packing two cars with 7 people, 12 boards and enough food and drink to feed an army.

When we moved to the states, I don’t think we ever set out to visit all the close by countries but through surfing we have now done Mexico, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Nicaragua.  Got to say I am pretty happy about seeing these wonderful, rich, beautiful places.

We drove to K38 just south of Rosarito which had a nice spot to stay, with our crew consisting of Brian and Jamie the birthday crew, Tyler and Murph the boys, Sarah and Kathleen, the girls and me.

The boys crew.

With a cuppa and their feet up though.

So back to Mexico.  Things which are epic.

Food.  You knew this, but it is.  This place just next to Rocas hotel was amazing.  Fish tacos the whole 9 yards.

Drink.  Of course it is.  Tyler who hadn’t been drinking managed to this point decided on finishing a handle of margarita (I think it was) anyways.

The Hustle. Those Mexican blankets we all have here in Oregon, they must all come from here and damn its fun here looking around the market, well for a man the first 30 minutes are fun, before the humidity sets in.

This was at the border.  I have so much respect for the people out here selling fruit, blankets, football shirts, singing, doing whatever they need to support themselves.  No one is begging, but just putting in the work.

The happy Couple and the amazing sunsets

Since I didn’t get the chance to go to their wedding this made up nicely for it.

The surf outside the villa was amazing fun, although the first day we did kind of mess up by paddling out on high tide and scaring ourselves shitless by paddling straight at a rock only 6 ft away and hoping to take off, bottom turn and navigate along the face before being mangled on the rock.  Not easy for me.

At mid and low tide though it was a very forgiving for a mediocre surfer with a bad hip.  Perfect.

Thats those rocks.  Right in the way.

I believe this was Murph winning yet another heat out front with us

I have been using this app called Dawn Patrol on the Apple Watch.  Yes its a bit goofy but on the other hand, tracking where you are surfing, wave speed and length is kind of cool.

This was another beach we visited, called La Fonda ” A zippy beach break” as it was advertised to me by the boys.

but unfortunately Brian managed to come undone the second day (maybe as I wasn’t there to distract him with my average surfing) but he got a fin deep in the side of his head.  That’ll teach him to have large fins…

Of course they had an epic restaurant to watch from after the surf too.

After the trip when we got back to Encinitas, we missioned out for a surf in some terrible conditions, but my changing room right here was worth a photo anyways.

One last shout for Alaska Airlines.  They charge $25 each way for a board pack.  Sorry delta but at $150 thats a joke.

oh yeah.  Thought this was very Apt.  People in Mexico just seem to be getting on with it.  despite this guy.

Its an odd one as the very same people who cast that fear into the mind of the people seem to forget the dangers of parts of cities of the modern world like their own house is in order.  The world can be dangerous wherever you go, it can be beautiful.

Thank you Mexico, thank you Crew!

Oh and I also put together a video from the surf in Mexico too….

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